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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end establishments. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states a family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.